Historic towns, Life of adventure, Spain., Travel

Cadiz: An Ancient Port City

Suzanne

Leaving the silence of the inner hills of Andalucia, we were on our way to spend a few days in the city of Cadiz. This was our Festive season present to each other; the calendar page had been turned in in December.

Any excuse to celebrate.

Firstly, we needed to drop our larger suitcases off at our next house, have a cuppa with Sarah, and say hello to Fudge the dog, who we last cared for in Switzerland Neighbourhood Walks – Aubonne.

Approaching the southwesternmost part of Spain, Cadiz, we hoped the Hotel Convento would be easy to find.  No such luck, though having said that, success was sort of on our side as we circled the area for the third time; the Squire located a small area where he skillfully parked the car.  If I had been driving the car, it would have had a few more scrapes on it and a much more stressful twosome.

Feeling hopeful, we grabbed our bags and searched for our temporary abode.  We finally located down a narrow street that was not that car-friendly, and thankfully, we ignored the annoying voice coming from our MapsMe app, which wanted us to head up one of those streets.  However, we did realise that the hotel, which is part of a larger church, was actually on the main road.  Don’t new places look so much different when in a more relaxed frame of mind!

We were eager for a walk after going through the usual procedure of checking in and dropping our bags in our room.  It was so good to wander around, though the temperature was not as we would have wished for, it was cold, the wind from the north/east had come for a visit,  which was hitting us full on as we ventured into the streets.

Do you remember I mentioned something about Spain’s coldest winter in a previous post?  Well, I blimely did, and here it is, Travelling Light.  Although no records were broken and the sun was still shining, we were delivered a cold blast from the North/East, which made this part of Southern Spain, not such a warm place to be, though probably much more temperate than other parts of Europe.

Having purchased two beanies, we were now ready for the beast from the North/East.

Back to our first few hours of wandering around Cadiz.  Our first thoughts were that this place has got such a lovely atmosphere, people seem relaxed, chatting and smiling as they slowly passed us, no one was in any hurry.

Then we heard music at the end of a street that looked like it led to a square, and other people seemed to be heading in that same direction.  We decided to follow the crowd.  The sun was going down, and it soon disappeared, and in its place, the festive lights took over.  It was a gorgeous sight; we had beaming smiles from ear to ear as the countdown began.  For what, you ask?   The lighting of the community Christmas Tree was, of course, the 1st of December.

We had experienced our first Christmas market and our first in Spain.  What a treat.  After wandering for another hour more it was time to get our bearings and start to head back to our hotel, we were beginning to feel cold.  A warm room and sleep were waiting for us.

Tomorrow was another day.  

After one too many pastries, with fruit for a dash of healthiness and washed down with caffeine.  We were ready for a full day of exploring from Santa María, the gipsy quarter, to La Viña, the old fishing quarter.  Then, a brisk walk around the waterfront, visiting Castillo de Santa Catalina with a view out to sea to discover the affluent areas within a few metres away.  These areas, of course, would need to be repeated as we never seem to see everything the first time around.

Firstly, some unique points of Cadiz.

  • The oldest continuously inhabited city in Spain and one of the oldest in Western Europe, it was founded by the Phoenicians.
  • On a good day, you can view another continent – Africa
  • Locals can be heard speaking “gaditano”, embedded into over 3,000 years of history.
  • Christopher Columbus sailed from Cadiz to the Americas.
  • The city has over 100 watchtowers.  They represent the prosperity and trade which occurred in the city in the 18th century. Nowadays, the Tavira Tower is the official watchtower because it is the highest point in the town at 45 meters above sea level, and also because it is located in the centre of the city.

Late afternoon/early evening, we were still wandering around; I noticed a picture of Frida Kahlo, which brought a smile to my face.  I have always admired her work.

I digress once again.   Now, back to us standing there by this building, looking in the window.  Our thoughts were disturbed by this man standing in a group who invited us to come in; we were hesitant to do so due to him speaking in Spanish and us not knowing what he was saying, so we continued to smile and stay put.  Finally, after more persuasion on his part, we entered.

Inside was a gallery with paintings of Frida Kahlo, which I had not previously seen.  This man who invited us along with his friend was the artist Fausto Velazquez. Did we know this at the time?  No, we did not.  Or else I would’ve been cheeky enough to ask him for his autograph.  Now that I know who he was, we feel honoured to have been “Johnny on the Spot”.

One blogger whom I have followed and enjoyed reading for a while has written a few articles in detail with incredible photos about Frida Kahlo, so definitely visit Clare at The Easel Weasel.

Another day of exploring was completed, and again, it was time to head to the warm oasis of our room.  This gives me now the opportunity to describe this boutique accommodation called Hotel Convento, where we had the chance to stay. It is a smallish hotel that is housed in a 17th-century convent, with one of the most beautifully understated churches we have seen.

To make it even more unique, there was a beautiful chant that we loved to listen to.  This incantation is said to give spiritual nourishment to those who listen to it; maybe that is the reason why we felt so relaxed listening to this wonderful music as we headed to breakfast or out for the day through the cloister.

While out exploring, we would often stop to sample the delicious pastries, see unique architectural details and listen to the happy-sounding local dialect.  All of which were down narrow lanes in what seemed an endless maze.  Yes, we did lose our bearings once or twice.

In most Spanish cities, a trip to the permanent central market is an excellent way to see locals going about their day and the best place to buy fresh produce.

Cádiz market was no exception.

The main explanation would be that Cadiz is a port city with access to the freshest seafood.  Of course, there are the usual meat, fruit and vegetable stalls.  The stalls with their unique names, which we thought was a lovely personal touch.

If fresh vegetables, fruit, meat and fish aren’t required, then you can sample the abundant tapas on offer in the gastronomic corner.  Washed down, of course, with wine or beer.

What an assault on our senses.

With each day came evermore enticing food for us to excite our tastebuds.  A strong wind whipped us faster around every corner.  Buildings from differing cultures activate our imaginations.  Sounds of wrenching flamenco coplas to pleasurable tones from church bells and monks chanting.

Published by Suzanne

Travel and Life Musings from New Zealand and Beyond. . . . . . .

66 thoughts on “Cadiz: An Ancient Port City”

    1. Thanks, Stewie, it was a small break in between housesits where we try to go and explore somewhere new. Nothing quite like exploring a new place with your best friend 🙂 Thanks for commenting, much appreciated.

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  4. Thank you! I have long wanted to visit Cadiz (almost as long as Cascais and I did finally get there 🙂 ) and you’ve presented me with a hotel that looks well nigh perfect from my point of view. 🙂 🙂 We are spending increasing amounts of time in the Algarve with the intent to move there next year so it’s now highly possible. I watched Rick Stein’s long weekend there not long ago and knew I’d love the city. I can imagine that blast of cold but as it’s only 2C on our north east coast I expect I’d manage.

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    1. You are welcome Jo and same goes back to you for commenting 🙂 How exciting a new change in life, we can highly recommend it! Look forward to hearing about your move. Though you will know much about the area as you have visited quite often? Yes, a cold blast came through while we were there, the sun shone most of the time, just the wind was a tad chilly!! I enjoy watching Rick Stein’s programmes, though never saw that one. Though we rarely watch TV now. As the availability during housesitting varies so much. Yes, you will easily manage a winter in these parts, not hard at all. Though having said that we loved the snow in Northern France, no doubt because it was such a novelty.

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        1. LOL, yes I think so 🙂 It will be interesting to see how it feels living there permanently vs using it as a holiday retreat. Look forward to reading about it!

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    1. Thanks Miriam, we enjoyed exploring Cadiz, has a good feel to the place. Even better late afternoon evening as there are mostly locals around.

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  6. Sold! To the tall lady in Grenoble ….. Your pictures, words, whole post has me frantically wondering how I can fit in a trip to Spain (and certainly to Cadiz which to my shame I had never even considered) in the next few weeks. I’m the lady in the right hand drive yellow seat Ibiza with French number-plates if you happen to see me haring past!!

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    1. Thanks Osyth 🙂 Maybe contact me as I am unlikely to see yellow seats in cars and to be honest I don’t notice eccentric looking people driving fast anymore, as it’s quite common in Europe LOL [Joke]

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      1. No. It isn’t a joke. Best not to get me started on driving standards 😉 Its the make of the car which is SEAT it has black and red seats. I may well be true to my word but I only have a 5 week window to achieve it. I just have very itchy feet right now …. pondering hard 🤔

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        1. I think it’s an equal ratio of bad drivers in every country we go to. Though many don’t tailgate as much as NZers do! So funny, that I mistook SEAT for like actually a seat. Never heard of that make, then I know very little about cars. Enjoy your pondering, whether to scratch that itch 🙂

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          1. They are Spanish made with VW engines. I love mine but with 183,000 miles on the clock he is on borrowed time, I fear. Every country has its vagaries with driving and I have long threatened a Franco-British-American comparison post. None would come out well ….

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    1. Yes, love old churches just not the institution that runs them. Proud to say I am no longer a practising Catholic though still believe that there are a higher order for a better word. It was an amazing place to stay 🙂

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        1. Yes, went to Catholic schools, and mass every Sunday and sometimes during the week. Still remember my sore knees and my impatience to get up and go outside where the sun shone 🙂

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  11. Thanks for the link up Suz…this is a wonderful post…Cadiz looks amazing, another place for my list…the place you stayed looks interesting too…in fact it all does, gorgeous looking city…pity it was so cold…its freezing in Ireland right now…I wish I was there (even if it is cold).

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    1. You are most welcome Clare, as you did such an amazing post/s on Frida that I had to mention you 🙂 It was only cold for a few days then back to mid to late teens. Not a bad sort of temperature for winter. Keep warm in Ireland and see it as an excuse to write more if it is too cold to go outside!

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    1. It is a fab place, Josy! Fudge is by the beach with his family. We will be there for Christmas, just the 3 of us 🙂 At the moment in the hills above Costa Topical.

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  13. Too bad it was so chilly, especially when you didn’t expect it. It seems to happen to us a lot as well, especially since we are trying so hard to avoid it. Beautiful sights, Suz. What a perfect gift to each other, this Cadiz “city trip”! Better than collecting more stuff. 🙂 Our current dog Frida is named after Frida Kahlo. And, one of our previous house sits, the one in Santa Fe, is set near where she lived.

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    1. Wow, isn’t it interesting how so many things connect us to other people and their experiences. Love it 🙂 To be honest we haven’t brought each other presents for years, as we usually get something as we need it. I would rather spend money or experiences than have jewellery or something similar!! Plus it was a good justification to spending a wee bit more than usual on a boutique hotel 🙂

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  14. I love your posts, as they are always so vivid and descriptive. That Christmas tree was very pretty and unusual, what a bit of luck stumbling upon that. Despite the cold, it still looks very pleasant there in Cadiz. The buildings are beautiful and the food sounds delicious too. Seems like you have hit the jackpot here 🙂

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    1. Oh, thanks Judy for your lovely comment. Yes, it was a good few days exploring. Had to keep walking to burn off those pastries 🙂 The Christmas Tree was fantastic as we have not come across such a decorative city before, well it is our first full December in Europe.

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    1. Thanks you two, the weather was coolish for a couple of days then turned out lovely. Up in the hills, having a change of scenery. after doing a housesit near Marbella. Hope NZ is treating you both well.

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  19. Your pictures are great…what a wonderful place to stay…..l’d take bright, sunny and cold over warm rain. We visited Cadiz last year and sat cooped up in the van to wait for three days of rain to clear. We really liked Cadiz too:)

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    1. Yes it really is all about timing isn’t it. Maybe next time there will be no rain. It’s worth another visit ☺

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    1. Thanks Shelley 🙂 It’s a manageable sized city/town to explore, with I am sure lots more to see when it’s warmer. Cruise ships are still coming and going from Cadiz.

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  23. We’ll be in Spain this Spring to hike the Camino and are planning to tour more of the country when we’re finished. You’ve made Cadiz look like a beautiful addition to the list (and I’m sure it will be much warmer in Spring than the holiday season. Thanks Suzanne!

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    1. Let’s put it this way, it’s warmer than many other northern countries at the moment 🙂 Without the wind it is glorious with the wind you need a jacket! 90 per cent of the time the sun is shining. A local just told us today that Spring is a wonderful time to visit, many wild flowers etc was one thing she mentioned. Gabe, you will have fun discovering places and exploring them.

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  24. You continually force me to add things to my bucket list. The photos were beautiful. I laughed that you kept referring to other people but I don’t really see any people in your pictures. Did the north wind blow them away?

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    1. Thanks Jennifer, ummm may have to read my post and see where I mentioned said people. I have got exceptionally adapt at waiting for the right moment to take a photo without loads of strange faces in them. I want to remember the place, not people I don’t know. Hence the lack of people 🙂

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