We left a small part of Sussex and friends, to drive through another county called Dorset to load up on the more visual wonderment of quaint homes, countryside and historical sites, not to mention the friendly locals.
Then we find ourselves eventually back in Devon. Well, that wasn’t planned.
The reason.
We stayed in a quaint old cottage on the cusp of Devon to explore Dorset. Though at first, I did think it was in Dorset when I booked it in a hurry.
More importantly, it was to be the beginning of our “mini holiday” and our introduction to the Jurassic Coast.
Uplyme
Our Airbnb “Little Roost“ was a delight to stay in and with a few steps from our door saw us head down a lane to the sound of running water, a river, the odd four-legged animal in the paddocks, paths through bush were our companions as we made our way to Lyme Regis or just for an evening stroll. One intriguing sight that we passed on our walks was the Millhouse and water wheel.
For a not so leisurely walk, we had narrow country lanes up hills that seem to go on forever. I kept telling myself this was my penance for indulging in that extra slab of cheese. Walking, exploring and eating about sums up our time in this small part of Devon which is only a step or two away from Dorset.
Lyme Regis
We started our first half an hour in this seaside town, with a burst of sea air and a saunter down Lyme’s sea-front promenade. To your right, pastel-coloured Georgian houses and cafes line Lyme’s wide promenade.
Sometimes it is difficult to get my head around visualising people we only know from books strolling down the same promenade; Miss Jane Austen was one such person to do so, 150 years earlier than us.
As Lyme’s seafront promenade gives way to sand, cafes line the road as well as a few local chippies and not forgetting the ice-cream vendors. We didn’t entertain the idea of a coffee that day though many cafes were set up to lose more than a moment or two of your time soaking up the laidback beachy atmosphere that surrounded us that morning.
Around to where boats were moored about fishermen relaxing after a few hours at sea, is the walk to the end of Lyme’s famous man-made harbour wall named The Cobb.
If you happen to be a movie buff, unlike us, you may recall the scene from The French Lieutenant’s Woman or Louisa Musgrove in Jane Austin’s Persuasion, as you wander down the cobb glancing out to sea.
The Cobb then curves around Lyme harbour and out into the open sea. It was a fun thing for us to do on a sunny warm calm summer’s day, not one I would contemplate during a blustery day during winter. It certainly gave us a panoramic view of the Dorset coastline stretching all the way to Chesil Beach; behind is the thickly pebbled Monmouth beach and its untamed section of cliffs.
On the way back, find the steps known as ‘granny’s teeth’ and tip-toe down them very gingerly one step at a time, like I managed to do.
Back onto walking around and up and down the narrow streets of Lyme Regis saw us being introduced to more information about why this place is world-known for its fossils. A local girl Mary Anning is the town’s much-lauded palaeontologist. Her ichthyosaur and plesiosaur find in the early 19th-century brought her much acclaim. To learn more about Mary Anning and her fossil finds, take a trip to the Lyme Regis Museum (built on Mary’s former home).
On our way back to the car via streets that are mentioned in the Doomsday book. We took more left, and right turns to spend time admiring more creative art via the art studios alongside the building that houses a 700-year-old water mill. Which unfortunately for us was not to be viewed.
Did you know that there was a viaduct just out of Lyme Regis? Well, there is and currently disused now. It has had a few repairs that are out of character to its original design, though still a sight to be seen.
It was now time for us to head further around the coast.
There are nearly 95 miles of dramatic Jurassic coastline. This multi-shaded coast runs directly from Lyme, climbs the bulk of Golden Cap, dips briefly for West Bay [think Broadchurch] then trickles away to become the shadowy point of Portland.
Which was to be our next destination the following day.
Portland
The drive to the lighthouse and cliff edge walk was not much to write home about. Which wasn’t at all a problem. As the main reason for our visit to Portland was to see the Lighthouse and the surrounding grounds. Funnily enough, quite a few people also had the same idea that day. We were fortunate as the sun was shining!
Swanage
Not the most well known on the average tourist circuit. It was on ours that summers day.
Why? Why not?
As we thought it had a few redeeming features worth exploring.
So off we went. Similar to the sunshine. On and off our radar all day. Through the town, us, not the sun, via what is called the Victorian Walk.
Up the hill, then a chat with a Coastal Watch Inspector, as you do. Once he worked out, we were from New Zealand we had the inevitable conversation about their trip to those small southern islands. His story was about his time over in New Zealand and how much he wanted to return and wondered if he could do an exchange with another Coastal Watch Inspector. He was quite informative about the cliffs and the erosion that is happening due to the unseasonably hot summer. The cracks were evident as we walked along. Hopefully, the ground was not going to open on our ascend and descend.
By now, we concluded that skipping lunch and just having an apple wasn’t the best plan we have made in our lives. So, what does one do while walking along the waterfront by the sea? It saw us indulging in a late lunch of Fish and Chips with lashings of vinegar and pepper. The seafood here is as fresh, with the prices a bit eye-watering though not bad enough that it didn’t leave us crabby. What we loved more than the food was the view and that our lunch was wrapped up in newsprint, an old-fashioned sort of takeaway.
So what better way to end our “Time Out” around the Jurassic Coast of Dorset?
Then to have our tummies full of fresh, hot fish and chips served in paper and our hearts happy to be walking, beside the seaside, beside the sea.
Life at No. 22 
wow…such a gorgeous area to visit. The blue doors look amazing. love the contrast. You climbed down those “granny steps”….I looked at your photo and was like NO! lol….thank you so much for sharing
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They look worse than they actually are, though luckily I don’t need to use them on a regular basis 🙂
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I love this part of the world, it is so beautiful. How brave you were to go down those steps. I did not dare!
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It is indeed an intriguing and beautiful area along the coast. The steps weren’t that bad I have for some reason lost my confidence of running down steps like that 🙂
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Very nice article of an area we love. We have had 2 house sits on the Dorset/Devon border and had great joy exploring the area. So nice to be reminded of these places in your post.
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Thanks Maura. This was more enjoyable as we weren’t housesitting and had the time to spend as much time as we wanted exploring. Though I do know that housesitting and living in the area gives you a completely different aspect than day trippers experience.
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A lovely reminder of one of my favourite places – Lyme Regis. I used to go there a lot when we lived in Somerset.
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You’re welcome, Cathy. I can imagine it would be a lovely contrast to the Somerset countryside. The small changing rooms and how everyone sits out with their chairs and tables always amuses me 🙂
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People sometimes hire the beach huts by the week! I suppose it’s handy to store stuff if you’re there for a while. They get pretty well used 🙂
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True, I can see the value of having them, they would be even handier if they had toilets. Then I suppose that will create even more paperwork and environmental headaches 🙂
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Absolutely!
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Gorgeous pics!
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Thank you.
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Love the UK’s Jurassic Coast and loved spending time there in Reg.
Great photos and post as always. 🙂
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She’s not a bad place to enjoy a few hours exploring, or a dip into cold refreshing water 🙂 Cheers me dear X
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Walking, exploring and eating… sounds like the perfect day to me! Those Granny’s Teeth steps look a little iffy but I’m sure, like you, I would have made my way up them. Going down, I probably would have done it on my butt. Such beautiful places you are visiting! Your photos are stunning.
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Thanks, Janis. Pride and the fact that many people older than myself managed, stopped me going down on my backside 😊
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Dorset is a lovely county, lovely countryside and interesting coastline. I have been to Lyme a few times, but you wouldn’t get me on those steps!
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Get away with ya, the steps aren’t that bad, Jude 😊
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I would be grabbing that wall with all my might and probably going down backwards! I did actually get onto the Cobb, and found even the other steps a bit of a challenge!
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The Cobb had an interesting viewpoint to look back over towards the town. I much prefer steps with something to grip on!
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I was conceived in Portland but they still haven’t put up a blue plaque to commemorate the monumental importance of this occurrence 😂 Dorset is one of the loveliest of places and as expected you have done given it a wonderful showcase here with your fabulous pictures and wonderful article.
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🤣 I can’t imagine why on earth a blue plaque was not erected to celebrate the birth of a princess. Shame on them 😜
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😂 😂 😂
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It’s years since I’ve been to that bit of the coast and I’d forgotten how pretty Lyme is. You’re braver than I am if you came down those stairs.
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There is something for everyone along the coast. Though one thing I hate seeing in a prominent position along the waterfront is those Amusement Arcades!!
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Yes, they’re not wonderful.
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I have only been to Lyme Regis once – I specifically wanted to go because I had read Persuasion (many times) and French Lieutenant’s Woman (twice – MUCH better than the film) and was desperate to visit the Cobb,
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Anabel, for you it must have been the “icing on the cake”, walking along the Cobb visualising the scenes from the two books!
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It absolutely was!
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Oh, The Jurassic Coast is absolutely on my bucket list,
Between the fossils and the scenery, I’d be in heaven.
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Sonia, I do hope you get to find your bit of heaven down along the coast 🙂
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Being the typical Austen lover, I love thus post. The images at Lyme Regis made me recall the dramatization of Persuasion- the dramatic fall!!
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To be honest Orla, and luckily for me, that scene wasn’t on my mind!
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I may have watched the film more than once😊
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I thought you may have done. 🙂
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This brings back childhood memories for me – we didn’t venture down Granny’s teeth though! It’s a great area for walking or cycling.
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It is a great area to walk and cycle, Kirsty, especially this year 🙂
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Really interesting I love the look of the Georgian houses. Photos are fabulous too.
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Thanks Glenys, I too love the Victorian houses. We are now in Clevedon and there are many interesting examples of the Victorian era here. Including a pier.
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What a nice stroll you took me on. Love all of your pictures. That B&B looked so cute! But those Granny Steps? I’d be clinging to the wall side.
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Jennifer, I’m pleased you enjoyed your walk. I love how they use colour to brighten up the lanes and streets over here. Would help the psyche in winter!!
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Ohh how I miss popping to Lyme or Sidmouth for a stroll you pictures helped me smell the sea again. Fantastic pics. We tried to buy in Up Lyme … stupid money.
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Yes, Ellen, I can imagine how eye-watering the house prices were or even now they would be out of the reach for most. As most places are near the sea. It’s all the baby boomers leaving the cities. 🙂
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Retirees buying as second homes and only living in them two weeks of the year grrrrrr… we compramised and bought in Somerset but we tried and it didn’t work so came back to Suffolk. We bring our motorhome to Eype in Dorset on top of the cliffs at WestBay and visit frequently. Best of both worlds for now.
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First Devon and then Dorset, it all looks so quaint and enjoyable. And, of course, I’m in love with the Jurassic coats and its lighthouses, thanks to your photographs and descriptions. Fish & chips, yum! And, that staircase is something tricky and special! It sounds like you had a nice time in between house sits! Where to, or are you, next?
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At our next housesit and in the UK until September then down a canal in a boat with friends for 2 weeks 🤗
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I must admit I feel a bit embarrassed that England is my home country and there are still so many corners that I have yet to explore! Love your post, will have to jump this up the list for when I am next home. #flyawayfriday
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Great to hear that you will venture to see more of England. She’s a beauty especially this hot summer
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I’ve heard of Lyme Regis before but I’ve never been there, and I had no idea that Jane Austen had been there as well. I have the same trouble picturing famous people from hundreds of years ago in a place that I can easily go to myself. It seems almost like it shouldn’t be allowed 😉 #FarawayFiles
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Thanks for commenting Katherine, much appreciated.
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What a quaint and charming place. I haven’t been to this part of the world in many, many years but this makes me want to go back.
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I hope you get the chance to visit The Jurassic Coast. Thanks for commenting.
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I looove the look of your Air B&B. You are so good at finding gorgeous (and homely) places to stay!
Hah! I had no idea those steps were called grannies teeth! Us Brits already have a terrible reputation for teeth! I hope mine aren’t that bad when i’m a gran!
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Lol Josy, I’m sure your teeth won’t be as bad!!
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These coastal towns and walks are so pretty! I am trying to fit my summer with as many beach walk as possible. I think we are doing pretty good! I would be scared to do the granny’s teeth. I have never seen such peculiar steps!
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Your beach walking sounds wonderful. Enjoy and thanks for commenting 😊
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There’s a mystique to that Dorset coast, isn’t there? I had an auntie who lived in North Devon and I always wanted to spend a bit of time down that way. Life doesn’t always work out as we plan though, does it? Lyme is very much the French Lieutenant novel to me. Maybe some day… who knows, but I won’t be able to visit my aunt.
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Life certainly does not always work out as we plan. Big thing is being flexible makes the changes less noticeable or annoying. Jo, maybe you didn’t really want to go as much as you thought you did?
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OMG – that cottage with the old wooden water wheel is SO dreamy! What a lovely post. Thanks for sharing this journey!!! 🙂
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You are welcome and thank you for commenting 🙂
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