A-Z of NZ Locations

A-Z of NZ Locations – Hāwera

In my series of A-Z of NZ Locations, I will take you for a meander around areas that are unique gems, some yet to be polished though worth a visit for either historical reasons, culinary delights or for the sheer vistas.

Greytown to Hāwera

From Greytown, we head northwest to an inland farming area where Hāwera is situated. It is a small town; if you blink while driving through, it will flash by before you know it. What is interesting is the dominating presence of Mount Taranaki (Egmont) from various positions and a quaint museum.

Mt Taranaki at sunset

Tawhiti Museum

The nondescript building that houses real treasures.

Remember those dioramas you made as a kid for school projects? The tiny figures in painted shoe-box scenery took you hours to complete. Well, Tawhiti Museum has taken that art to a whole new level.

This surprising place brings history to life with hundreds of dioramas. Miniature models sync with life-size scenes to show Taranaki’s vivid past.

Tawhiti Owner and Artist Nigel Ogle

Nigel showing visitors his many skills

The creator and owner, alongside his wife, bought the old Tawhiti Cheese Factory outside Hawera in 1975. How could they imagine what it would become? Fast forward 40 years, and Tawhiti is now one of the most innovative private museums in New Zealand.

It all began in 1980 as a hobby, a way to combine his two great passions, art and history. But the model collection soon took on a life of its own. So in 1988, he left teaching behind and became the artist–storyteller we see today.

Taranaki History In Models Great And Small

There are more than just make figures; he brings scenes from Taranaki’s past to life with detailed props and scenery. Every expression and frozen gesture brings you into the story. Looking at their faces, it’s easy to imagine their thoughts and feelings. It can take anywhere from months to years to create a display.

A model showing the Egmont Collieries train passing Tangarakau township circa 1930.

Moturoa and Te Atiawa

In the 1820s, the wars between iwi in Waikato and Taranaki were fierce. When a Taranaki warrior killed a great Waikato Chief, the Waikato tribes vowed utu (revenge). Waikato had long been trading for muskets which gave them a huge advantage.

Into this hotbed sailed two traders, Dicky Barrett and Jacky Love bringing muskets a-plenty for whatever Taranaki iwi had to sell.

So it was, in 1832, that when Waikato came calling again, the Te Atiawa were ready. The battle at Otaka was long and hard. But this time, with European muskets and cannons to use, Te Atiawa managed to repel the invaders.

Then, fearful of the retribution that was bound to follow, the whole tribe fled. Some went south to Kapiti and Wellington. But Barrett and around 300 villagers set up home on the offshore island of Moturoa.

Traders and Whalers

This museum brings Taranaki’s trading and whaling history vividly to life.

We saw miniature dioramas and information boards a-plenty, but the true magic of Traders and Whalers comes as you float back in time. Because, incredibly, a recreation of the rocky Moturoa caverns and cliffs can be experienced as a ride inside the museum.

Now, you can step onto a boat and let the story come to life around you.

The scale is incredible.

Scene after scene comes into the light as you swish on the dark river. You see life-size warriors sharpening spears. Traders, women, and children; all go about their daily lives in the cramped caverns. There are buildings, goods, and food; even a pitched battle erupts around you.

And you can’t help but end the tour wondering. “How on earth were all these built in four short years?”

Tawhiti Museum has to be the jewel in Hāwera’s crown, alongside the magnificent Mount Taranaki.

Linking to Terri’s Sunday Stills – Historical

31 thoughts on “A-Z of NZ Locations – Hāwera”

  1. Wow these dioramas are amazing. I could actually see the expression on the figurines faces. I love that picture of the snow-capped mountain and the reflection of the pink sky on the water. But I have to ask, is that a picture or a diorama as well?

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    1. It is special when a museum is a personal passion for people than just an impersonal collection of artefacts in a large building. Mt Taranaki is beautiful to view and is now popular to climb, though not an ambition I have I enjoy less height 🙂

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  2. I love this, Suzanne! What talented people these are to be able to create these dioramas which recreate important points in history. The mountain vistas leading us to the museum are breathtaking! Great to see your post shared for Sunday Stills!

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