The above-featured image is an oil on canvas [1979], painted by Nikos Hadjikyriakos – Ghika’s “Pines and Blue Chair in the Afternoon”.
While most other people with us included, do see Athens as surrounded by antiquity which of course the city has in abundance, there is another side, its developing art scene, which I touched briefly on in “Who decides what ART is?”,
When wandering around this ancient city of Athens which by the way has been established for around 6000 years, we realised that the place has the feel of an open-air museum, with archaeological sites scattered around the inner city and the surrounding areas.
ANTIQUITY
The Roman Agora ruins. What a hustle and bustling place. As most communication would have been verbal, it would’ve been a significant place to congregate and share information as well as produce. A few nights ago it came alive with a concert that we listened to for a while, to see more of it go HERE
This is the fascinating Tower of the Winds. What’s the Tower of Winds I hear you say? In basic terms, it is believed to be the world’s first weather vane, though able to do much more intricate work and a long history in its development. To read more, about what we thought was one the more fascinating archaeological sites in Athens: Wikipedia
The Temple of Olympian Zeus, also known as the Olympieion or Columns of the Olympian Zeus.
The Hadrian Arch, it’s quite hard to comprehend that this construction began in the 6th century BC during the rule of the Athenian tyrant Peisistratus, though it was not completed until the reign of the Roman Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century AD, 650 years after the project had begun. When we are faced with structures such as this, we always stare in wonderment on how well it was built without the use of engine power.
After viewing the archaeological sites, it really does beg the question are we really the superior century and generations of advancement?
When it comes to buildings, sometimes the large overpowers the small, the day we walked around the square where the below churches are situated on, it was the smaller church that caught our attention as there was a lack of people entering. Well, that was a sign to head on over and have a look.
The Church of Panagia Gorgoepikoos was not as ornate as the Cathedral though what it had was an area where we could buy and light a candle to remember loved ones.
Next stop was the larger of the two, and one which made us go “WOW”. A fellow blogger just this moment in a comment from Part 1 – Wandering the streets in Athens, reminded me to include it, so here it is April who writes a detailed blog about medieval life at aprilmunday.wordpress.com.
Now back to the church in question, which is far from being medieval though still very attractive. It is the most spectacular and well-preserved church we have visited for a while, the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens, one of the largest modern Orthodox churches in Greece.
CREATIVITY
We did eventually turn our sights to Athens more creativity side when I/we visited a few smaller spaces with artefacts and newer forms of art that are closeted away inside museums and churches. One Museum that caught my attention which I visited on one of my solo days was the Benaki Museum. This grand old building was once occupied by a well-known family who chose to turn it into a museum in the 1930s with emphasis on the Greek culture over the span of the country’s history. Now everyone has the privilege of admiring the beautiful neoclassical-style building as well as the exhibitions that adorn its inside spaces. The below photograph is a view from inside looking towards the front entrance, to the right and left are gift shops, further inside on the lower levels are the more ancient artefacts, with the modern 20thCentury artists on the top level where a cafe is situated with a view over the National Park of Athens.
Though Athens is deeply rooted in antiquity, it does have its share of modern art in various museums. The Benaki is no exception and the exhibition on 3 people [Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika, John Craxton, Patrick Leigh Fermor] who had an impact in Greece as well as the UK, two were artists and the other a writer. It was a fascinating presentation, with not just on what they achieved as artists/writer there was the long relationship the three had together and their equal passion of Greece.
What I loved apart from the paintings was the personalised messages from the artists alongside the art. As above: “For the houses, as though in protest against the masterless swirl of rock, are cubic, solid, and severe. The great ones are built of regular blocks of grey stone hewn from the mountain, and the dark windows are barred like those of dungeons. The others are a blinding white, and they might have been sliced and squared out of goat’s cheese. The houses and the rocks alike thrust into the air an infinity of sharp and light-reflecting facets” Patrick Leigh Fermor – artist – The background of Niko Ghika
Another aspect of the Museum worth mentioning is their use of video, “Liquid Antiquity: Conversations”, conceived and designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro. This was situated on the lower floor, with videos set up with chairs to sit and listen to the various artists.
Athens has so many museums and art galleries it was probably not possible to see all of them in a week or so that we had there. The one I did want to visit was the National Modern Art Gallery, I walked there one morning to find it closed, no up to date information on their website. Not impressed!!
One Museum that we visited together and worth mentioning is the Acropolis Museum.
As we weren’t allowed to use our cameras to capture the artefacts, I was intrigued by this young woman who was seemed engrossed in capturing her visit with sketching. Which I thought was a fantastic idea.
This form of remembering an experience was discussed by Clare, in a post she wrote about her experience while visiting the Tate Museum in London. Check out Clare the artist and blogger over at https://theeaselweasel.wordpress.com/
Wonderful walk. I enjoyed it very much and brought memories tomy mind. The inside photo of Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens, is wonderful. We have in Finland few Orthodox churches and one monastery. It was very nice to compare Your picture with those we have inFinland.
Happy and safe travels.
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Thank you. Yes that church was in pristine condition. We have had family visit Finland and they loved your country. It is one country we have yet to explore, one day!
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I wish that You will visit. Do not stay in Helsinki, but visit the countryside – there are hidden gems of my country. Matti
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Yes couldn’t agree more about visiting the countryside more than the cities. We usually housesit in the smaller communities which we love. Thanks for the tip Matti.
Suz
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You take the most awesome pics. Thanks for sharing your travels with all of us!
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Thanks very much Lisa, and it is definitely my pleasure 🙂
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What a wonderful post with beautiful photos – this takes me back to a girls’ holiday 25 odd years ago – pre husband & kids – to Greece, including time spent in Athens. I seem to remember that back then we did use cameras in the Acropolis museum, so I will have to hunt out my old holiday pics! Thanks for a trip down memory lane x
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Thanks Clare, the Acropolis Museum is a new one, it would be interesting to view the old one 🙂
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This is one place I would love to visit. Wonderful post (and pictures), Suzanne x
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Thanks Shelley, yes we thought at the end of our time there that it was a city worth visiting
Suz x
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Thank you for sharing more of Athens. Sometimes I hesitate spending much time in museums while traveling because I don’t want to miss seeing the sights. But, when I decide to venture inside, I’m rarely disappointed.
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Yes I’m the same, my husband enjoys the museums more than me. Though once inside we are usually not disappointed. We had more time here so had the luxury of not rushing around!
Suz
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I love this juxtaposition of modern and antiquity.
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Thanks Jennifer ☺
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This is all amaazing. I have been to Athens a couple of times, but we always seem to stay for one night, then escape as quickly as possible to head out to the islands. It looks like I should stay a bit longer next time!!
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Josy, you could be pleasantly surprised. It even has a beach near the city for that sea breeze 🙂
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beautiful pictures. Love reading about your adventures.
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Thank you for your kind comment. I enjoy writing about the amazing places we go to! Though you wouldn’t believe how many times I change things! 🙂
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The tower of winds sounds so much more romantic than weather vein. And I feel a story lurking in the temple of Zeus. #SocialSaturday
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I am sure you are right Ellen.
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Thanks for the shout out Suz….(the article is on http://www.theeaselweasel.wordpress.com btw ..I know- am a pain!)..great to see the sketcher and get a tour…lovely photos as always…was also delighted to see that Leigh Fermor was part of that exhibition there…I read his biography a few years back and fell in love with him (his writing is harder to get a grip on though it is beautifully descriptive for the modern mind its tough) and have since wanted to visit his old house in Kardimyli (spelling could be off)..I think its been slowly renovated to cater to visitors. Thanks!
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Thanks Clare, there is so much of the art world I would love to know, hopefully I will slowly over the years educate myself on the different art/artist that’s out there! BTW you are not a pain! Interesting person would be one descriptive word for you!
Suz
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I’ll take that!…I think from your blog posts you know far more than you think…just looking and questioning things puts you ahead of the game..
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I just corrected the link to the right page 🙂
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You are a most excellent lady Suz, many thanks x
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The antiquities are mind-blowing … as you rightly say at one point – getting your head round the sheer age of some of these buildings and remains and then looking at the skill that was employed by the ancient Greeks to build them is overwhelming. the modern art is the antiquité of the future, of course and that tends to be one of the ways I view art … how will this be viewed in 100 or 1000 years if it survives. What will it tell of us now to those that come after us? Fascinating piece and marvelous photographs 😊
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Thanks Osyth 🙂 Makes me wonder what sort of art was discarded over the centuries! Plus what art is classified as representing this century!
Suz
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Interesting questions which I will ponder on my walk. Banksie springs straight to mind for the second question, by the way but that may be because I am English.
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Enjoy your walk, I have been on mine before it got too warm 🙂
Suz
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I love that photo of the Temple of Olympian Zeus.
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Thanks Hayley, it is an amazing structure and imagine what it would have been like when it was first built!!
Suz
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Indeed!
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There are so many wonderful buildings there, I’m not surprised you almost forgot to include the cathedral. Thank you for the mention.
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Thanks April, and you are welcome 🙂
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This was so interesting Suz! I absolutely love the pic at the top of your post.
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Thanks Deb, yes I love that picture too, such a bright and cheerful one of summer days. lazing in the sun!
Suz
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It’s been hot here today 24 degrees!! Summer is on the way 🙂
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Great to hear, you will be happier with that temperature 🙂 Portugal needs rain!!
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