Leaving the silence of the inner hills of Andalucia, we were on our way to spend a few days in the city of Cadiz. This was our Festive season present to each other; the calendar page had been turned in in December.
Any excuse to celebrate.
Firstly, we needed to drop our larger suitcases off at our next house, have a cuppa with Sarah, and say hello to Fudge the dog we last cared for in the Switzerland Neighbourhood Walks – Aubonne.
Approaching the southwesternmost part of Spain, Cadiz, we hoped the Hotel Convento would be easy to find. No such luck, though, having said that, success was on our side as we circled the area for the third time; the Squire located a small area where he skillfully parked the car. If I had been driving the vehicle, it would have had a few more scrapes and much more stress.
Feeling hopeful, we grabbed our bags and searched for our temporary abode. We finally ended up on a narrow street that was not that car-friendly, and thankfully, we ignored the annoying voice coming from our MapsMe app, which wanted us to head up one of those streets. However, we realised that the hotel, part of a larger church, was actually on the main road. Don’t new places look so different when you are in a more relaxed frame of mind!
We were eager for a walk after going through the usual check-in procedure and dropping our bags in our room. It was so good to wander around, though the temperature was not as we would have wished for; it was cold, the wind from the north/east had come for a visit, which was hitting us full on as we ventured into the streets.
Do you remember I mentioned something about Spain’s coldest winter in a previous post? Well, I blimely did, and here it is, Travelling Light. Although no records were broken and the sun was still shining, we were delivered a cold blast from the North/East, which made this part of Southern Spain, not such a warm place to be, though probably much more temperate than other parts of Europe.
Having purchased two beanies, we were now ready for the beast from the North/East.
Back to our first few hours of wandering around Cadiz. Our first thought was that this place has such a lovely atmosphere; people seem relaxed, chatting and smiling as they slowly pass us, and no one is in any hurry.
Then we heard music at the end of a street that looked like it led to a square, and other people seemed to be heading in that same direction. We decided to follow the crowd. The sun was going down, and it soon disappeared; in its place, the festive lights took over. It was a gorgeous sight; we had beaming smiles from ear to ear as the countdown began. For what, you ask? The lighting of the community Christmas Tree was, of course, on the 1st of December.
We had experienced our first Christmas market and our first in Spain. What a treat. After wandering for another hour, we got our bearings and returned to our hotel. We were beginning to feel cold. A warm room and sleep were waiting for us.
Tomorrow was another day.
After one too many pastries, with fruit for a dash of healthiness and washed down with caffeine. We were ready for a full day of exploring from Santa María, the gipsy quarter, to La Viña, the old fishing quarter. Then, a brisk walk around the waterfront, visiting Castillo de Santa Catalina with a view out to sea, to discover the affluent areas within a few metres away. These areas would need to be repeated, as we never seem to see everything the first time around.
Firstly, some unique points of Cadiz.
- The oldest continuously inhabited city in Spain and one of the oldest in Western Europe, it was founded by the Phoenicians.
- On a good day, you can view another continent – Africa
- Locals can be heard speaking “gaditano”, embedded into over 3,000 years of history.
- Christopher Columbus sailed from Cadiz to the Americas.
- The city has over 100 watchtowers. They represent the prosperity and trade in the town in the 18th century. Nowadays, the Tavira Tower is the official watchtower because it is the highest point in the town at 45 meters above sea level and is located in the city centre.
Another day of exploring was completed, and again, it was time to head to the warm oasis of our room. This allows me now to describe this boutique accommodation called Hotel Convento, where we had the chance to stay. It is a smallish hotel housed in a 17th-century convent, with one of the most beautifully understated churches we have seen.
To make it even more unique, there was a beautiful chant that we loved to listen to. This incantation is said to give spiritual nourishment to those who listen to it; maybe that is why we felt so relaxed listening to this wonderful music as we headed to breakfast or out for the day through the cloister.
While exploring, we often stopped to sample the delicious pastries, see unique architectural details and listen to the happy-sounding local dialect. All of which were down narrow lanes in what seemed an endless maze. Yes, we did lose our bearings once or twice.
In most Spanish cities, a trip to the permanent central market is an excellent way to see locals going about their day and the best place to buy fresh produce.
Cádiz market was no exception.
The main explanation would be that Cadiz is a port city with access to the freshest seafood. Of course, there are the usual meat, fruit and vegetable stalls. The stalls with their unique names, which we thought was a lovely personal touch.
If fresh vegetables, fruit, meat and fish aren’t required, you can sample the abundant tapas in the gastronomic corner. Washed down, of course, with wine or beer.
What an assault on our senses.
Each day brought ever more enticing food for us to excite our taste buds. A strong wind whipped us faster around every corner. Buildings from differing cultures activate our imaginations. Sounds of wrenching flamenco coplas to pleasurable tones from church bells and monks chanting.
Life at No. 22 