In early December we were very fortunate to have the opportunity to stay in the Le Gebilra area of Andalucia in between housesits. Even though we were looking forward to a new area to explore, we did arrive somewhat jaded.
Why you may ask?
The reason “Cortijos Haza Tortas.”
It’s the name of a road. Looks somewhat like a simple Spanish name for a road, doesn’t it? Well, it’s not. This one is from the depths of somewhere most unpleasant. A road designed for goats, on a one-way wander.
Loosely translated by us to mean “Contorted Hazard Torturous”.
Surely I am joking? Right? Was I maybe being somewhat over dramatic? Well, no I am not!
The road was ripped up, no doubt due to heavy rain, that made the back tires spin as one part of the car was on the road while the other two tires had to wait a few more seconds before landing on terra firma. Moving on further, came the potholes, significant enough, to be classed as bathing holes for a small elephant, with sheer drops with no fencing or trees, to enjoy as we rolled around. There was even more delightful surprises to come, the introduction of 360-degree hairpins, one after another which made us feel like we were going round in circles, this was undoubtedly the beginning of what seemed a hell of a roadtrip. Passing a local casa where the front door meets the road, stood people whom we smiled and waved at gingerly as we moved slowly past, I knew what was coming. The look was returned to us, which confirmed what they were thinking, we were just another couple of turistas locos that had taken the wrong road. As far we were concerned we had not, we had only been at the mercy of one annoying GPS that was taking us on a shortcut!
What had we got ourselves into? How long was this journey going to take? Both questions that were muttered under our breaths more than a few times.
It was time for a breather, and luckily we found a driveway to pull into to let pass a motorcyclist who was at the rear of us driving like he was the cartoon character Roadrunner with a good measure of Evil Kevil style.
Who do we blame for this hair-raising drive? Our GPS, for taking on what was supposed to be the best route possible. Did this contraption receive a more descriptive name after that trip?. Yes, it did.
Which brings me back to our arrival at our new abode. Where we decided we didn’t want to move out of if we had to return on that road once again. Unlucky for us we had taken a route many do not venture over, who would have guessed that reply! Not I. Politely we were not told by the neighbour that we were complete idiots instead we were shown on our map a more pleasant route back to the Costa Tropical for when we wanted a day out and our departure.
After a deep breath, a conversation with the informative neighbour, we had a cuppa to revive our composure. It was now time for a walk.
The afternoon we arrived, it was busy in this small section of the valley. It was olive harvesting time. With the sounds of chugging engines, the olives were going through the process, the voices of chattering men could be heard over the loud engines. If the men were not in the shed, then they could be found waiting patiently outside the Olive Press. The women held a more dignified place inside their vehicles reading or knitting from what I could see as I passed on from my walk down the road.
Approximately seven vehicles were parked outside the Olive press. As we approached plastic containers or bags heavy with olives were being carried into the storage shed or laid in the sun. All very exciting and the anticipation of liquid gold that was going to be produced. Though I would say, most growers would have a fair knowledge of what amount they would get. The place we stayed at had already picked their olives and the beautiful gold coloured oil was waiting in large glass vessels waiting to be poured into smaller user-friendly bottles, once they have had that resting time, for the sediment to settle at the bottom of the container.
You see we were staying just up the road from the Olive Press.
After a good night’s sleep, we relaxed around the Casa as indeed it was all here that we needed, such as food, a sample of local wine, gardening to do, scenic views, country walks and of course WIFI! Sometimes it is the simple things in life, watching the sun go down or pottering around a garden to having a walk. All assist the absorption of a new culture and what we have already explored. We felt like hibernating for a short while, well it was winter time. It was time to charge those travelling batteries, those batteries being our enthusiasm to do more exploring. Hibernation time here included some planning as in booking flights to Istanbul for when we leave Spain late February. Then our return to the UK from Turkey in April. We also have plans to explore places before departing Spain, all this takes time and planning. Not forgetting catching up on some blogging!
With all of this mental work, I find a need for physical labour to balance my equilibrium or is that another word for “sanity“. We had swapped dog sitting Fudge for a garden in the hills. It was fun to get my fingers dirty and to use muscles I haven’t exercised in a while as I chopped a few branches off trees. Lucky for us some still had fruit on, such as pomegranates and oranges.
To have a break from organising and gardening, I acted like a mountain goat and went up and down the hills, stepping on what smelt like a wild lavender and other scented wildflowers, amongst the arid dry ploughed up ground. For both of us to tackle a walk, we will have to wait until we get back to civilisation and flat terrain, hills are not suitable for the Squire.
On my walks, the people you meet are more likely than not to be locals which is a hint that the primary concern around here is not the foreign tourist market. They seem to have left all that to the Costa del Sol, an hour or so west. Which is why we love being up in the hills, for a change of scenery. We would like it even more if they had better roads!
Not far from our temporary abode I can be wandering around the hills within minutes, during a recent stroll, I found plastic crates full of olives, open to the elements.
Even worse were the olives that are placed in plastic bags left in the sun. As one local said to us, they have been doing the same practices for many years, the quality of oil is not questioned. If you do the same methods, taste the same oil, all is well. People who treat the olives with more care will have more chance of having a higher quality olive oil. Many of the oils that are branded as Olive Oil are very questionable. The one oil we have tasted in the area is the one grown in the backyard where we are staying it’s by far the best experience of Spanish olive oil we have tasted in Spain.
Cortijos Haza Tortas sounds horrible, but at least it took you to this lovely spot! My dad bought a cheap sat nav once that would always take us on the craziest routes, so we started to call it the crap-nav. It would often tell us to go in completely the wrong direction!
Anyway it looks like you have had an idyllic end to 2017. I just with I could try some of that amazing Spanish olive oil!!
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The oil is very yummy Josy. We use Mapsme. Happy New Year 😊
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Suz, you make my feet itchy!Beautiful photos again…Happy New Year xx
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Happy New Year to you Clare and thanks for being a wonderful supporter of my blog xx
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You make it easy Suz x
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It sounds like the hair raising drive was worth it in the end! We had a similar experience in Croatia where the only people we saw were those coming out of their remote farmhouses to laugh at us! Happy New Year to you and the Squire and may 2018 bring you many more adventures x
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All good fun eh Em, and it certainly makes us all remember the trip even more. Loved it up there though not the roads 🙂 All the best to you and Mr Fleche for more adventures in 2018 x
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What a wonderful trip even with the ups and downs. You go to some of the most wonderful places! I’d love to be around during olive harvesting time! Thanks for sharing your adventure with us!
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Thanks Lisa for commenting. Yes, I am sure you would love it. It brought back many good memories from when we had our small olive grove back in NZ.
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That road sounds terrifying to say the least, I am glad you managed to conquer it safely. Other than that, it sounds a lovely place! I hope you enjoy your stay there. 🙂
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We are now down on the coast with Fudge. Though just got back from conquering another hill though this one had room for two lanes and felt much safer 🙂
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I got vertigo just reading about that other road! 🙂
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Hahaha, well it did bring some of those wide eyed moments back when I was writing it up 🙂
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It truly sounds like a road that needs closure!! If you have to name it hazardous then surely…⚠️⚠️!! Glad you arrived safely though
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Orla, it is fine for the locals that live on the road, they are used to it, and no one goes fast unless they are a young lad on a motorbike. Most people have a four wheel drive vehicle. Plus I am just a little bit scared of heights, though I am conquering it and feel quite proud of myself for not losing the plot while the Squire was driving 🙂
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That seems like a beautiful area and fortunately not too wintry in the winter!
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Thanks Phil for commenting. I can see why people head over here during a Northern Winter!
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Yes, I’m “enjoying” quite a bit of Northern winter here right now. I’d much rather be there!
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Isn’t it funny we were just saying it would be fun to have a snowy Christmas. For us it has that novelty appeal which would no doubt wear thin if we had to do it yearly.
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Where I live in upstate NY it’s been snowing daily for about a month. It kind of wears on you
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Oh dear that drive doesn’t sound like much fun, but the rest of it does! Such a great experience for you 🙂
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It was really lovely and no TV!! We very rarely watch it, usually only the news!! Both of us enjoy the countryside. Thanks for commenting Deb.
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Always a pleasure to read and comment on your posts. Happy 2018 🙂
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Thanks Deb the feeling is mutual. Happy HEALTHY 2018 😊
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Nice to know about a new place through your absorbing writing and lovely pictures, Suzanne….:)
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You are welcome Anindya 🙂
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Looks and sounds like an amazing place to stay! Also this was a really well written piece Suzanne – your road description really sucked me in to read the whole post, well done!
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Oh thanks Lauren, appreciate your comment 🙂 We were very fortunate to have the opportunity to stay there.
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Oh I have done the same so many times – in the UK and driving in Europe. Glad your temporary neighbours were kind enough to show you a better route! It looks like the journey was worth it though
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Oh yes it was Fiona 🙂 I could tell you a few hair raising stories of nearly having to drive up a bank in a Devon and Cornwall side road 🙂 All good fun and part of the journey!
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GPS can be evil!! Thanks for a lovely post – sounds like a wonderful part of world to visit.
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It is and I can see why many people from various other countries live here. Thanks for commenting Jill.
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What a horrifying experience! Our mutual friend, Janis, is convinced that her GPS is trying to kill her. Sounds like your GPS may be related to hers!
Wishing you smooth roadways ahead!
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Haha hopefully not. We would rather think if was being thoughtful to suggest a shortcut. Unwisely perhaps in this case. Narrow roads in the Spanish hills is quite common. Yes to more smooth roads 😁
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It’s all ups and downs, isn’t it? Glad you survived your first Spanish Christmas, and the ‘holiday’. 🙂 🙂 Did you see many nativity scenes? There are lovely ones in most of the Algarve towns and villages. Wishing you good health and more ups than downs in 2018!
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Thanks, Jo and here’s to more up’s than downs and less steep ones 🙂 No didn’t spot any around the towns, though I would imagine more in the homes. Same to you for another amazing year in 2018.
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Sounds magical. We enjoy taking the roads less travelled. Some of the most stunning places are off the beaten track.
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Yes, you are right Wendy they are. It is a magical place, and brilliant to see the olive picking in action. Just love those trees as you know we did plant a few back in NZ 🙂
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This road is going to make sitting up the front in your bus/former home and going over the Takaka hill seem like an absolute doddle now. In fact it will make any road in NZ seem a dream:-) Looks like it was worth it once you were arrived though. What gorgeous country.
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Hahaha that brought back fond memories. You are right Wyn that road is now been allocated to the easy road to travel. Spain countryside is gorgeous. So much to see though very spaced out and very similar to Australia.
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Well I’m jolly glad ou made it all in one piece and discovered a safer route out!
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Thanks Osyth for your concern, and we were very glad to find that other route out too!!
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Wow, what a hairy, scary road to your new abode. Those darn GPS’s, right? We have to trust them in new locations, and once you set out upon certain roads, there is no other way than forward. Lovely new place, by the sounds of it. You do need a refill for your cuppa, though. 🙂
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Yes you right Liesbet there was no turning back on that road. The rest of our 10 day visit was great ☺
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Driving certain roads is all about experience, isn’t it? If you’d lived there 10 years, you’d probably be fine about going up and down the goat track.
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Very correct April. The Squire in a previous life would have been classed as a rally driver and even he thought the road was horrendous. Most locals never use it, only a few that live on it. All part of the experience and we have had a few laughs about it since being back on the coast 🙂
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What an amazing experience! You certainly embrace life with your adventures! I love your photos and your descriptions – even of the crazy roads! I’m quite jealous! ~ Lynn
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Thanks Lynn for your lovely comment. We do try to make the most of our situation, we don’t always succeed.
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Roads really do vary per country, love the hill scenery and the olive trees.
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Oh yes, they certainly do Rosie. On average the roads in Spain are far superior to the ones in NZ. As the case in most countries, get off the beaten track so to speak and the roads are less appealing to drive, though still worth exploring, just don’t take the word of a GPS 🙂
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Sounds lovely and very relaxing. I so agree, so often it’s about the small things that make a place special, the food, the wine, the views and the people … wonderful.
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Thanks Miriam, we are now back on the coast, and now appreciate the uniqueness of the hill country even more so now that we have left it. Always the way! Though we are back up in the hills in February just in a different area.
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Strangely, our conversation over breakfast was about hair-raising roads we have known! This one sounds horrendous, but at least you don’t have to go back down and the area you are in looks lovely.
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It was Anabel, though the road we ventured down, to be fair it is used by locals who have 4 wheel drive vehicles, not a car! The road we should have used is tar sealed, a considerable easier drive though still with sheer drops. People who live up and down in the hills think nothing of it even the elderly drive it without batting an eyelid. I just need to toughen up 🙂
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